: PlasmaGlow HLED Igniters Headlight Conversion Kit: Automotive
This part is now being repro’ed. You can now purchase it from Chevy 2 Only: Other ammeters run all of the current through the gauge. If you hook up the stock gauge in this manner, you will cook the gauge. This one works a bit differently. It looks for the current drop across a resistor shunt and uses that instead of a direct current measurement: Here is the original SS wiring diagram:
Ignition Solutions for Older Small Engines and Garden Pulling Tractors
A single ballast resistor being identifiable having only two prongs. You want to wire the ballast resistor in series with the ignition feed to the coil. Be certain to mount this resistor away from wiring harness’ and other meltable components. This resistor DOES get hot. And don’t forget to pack a spare in the glove box. Again, this part is usually found on the shelves and no “donor” vehicle type is required.
My engine (AQA) is out of the boat and on a pallet and I need to start it up using a remote starter switch. I cannot for the life of me remember how to hook up the two leads so that the engine not only turns over, but actually can start. Can anybody help me? Thanks.
This clever design was chosen by the engineers to save weight and space. Thus, only 2 coils are required to fire 4 spark plugs. All without a distributor as in most cars of this era. This minor miracle is possible because each coil fires 2 spark plugs simultaneously. One plug fires on the cylinder that is just completing its compression stroke and the other fires the cylinder that is just completing its exhaust stroke.
If you look carefully at worn spark plugs from a GL , 2 of the plugs will have worn center electrodes and the other 2 will have worn side electrodes.
Here’s the dilema, I also got the E-Z-wire harness and will be replacing the original harness around the same time. It seems to me I should be using the internal resistor coil because I’d prefer to have the igniter powered off of the full 12V I can supply for the coil just seems cleaner First, do I have this right and second, is there a difference in performance between the internal and the external ballast? Mike I’m not going to claim to be familiar with every performance coil out there, but I don’t think coils have an internal resistor built in.
They just have different values of resistance due to the windings. The Pertronix Flamethrower coil, for instance, can be purchased in either a 1. In your case, one advantage to using the 1.
The foot-candle is equal to one lumen per square foot and “the difference between the lux and the lumen is that the lux takes into account the area over which the luminous flux is spread. lumens, concentrated into an area of one square meter, lights up that square meter with .
Ballast Resistor Hook Up I am having problems with hooking up my wiring on my z. I have a connector before my ignition coil and 1 wire is blue which I believe hooks. Gents My 55 Chevy was missing the ballast resistor when I bought it. I think the previous owner had used HEI system for drag racing then took. This coil provides up to 70 more energy for starting and has sufficient energy reserves for acceleration and at high speeds. You can however use such coils provided you remove the ballast resister.
Jeep Cherokee Engines
Originally Posted by dirtinla I understand how to wire up the 3 wire alternator. The number 1 wire goes to a resistor or dash light and is suppose to glow when not charging. That wire goes to a dash light. The Dash light has 2 terminals one for neg and one for positive.
1. The connection shown in photo A supplies the control power to the two relays in the new harness. Just plug one of the stock (faded yellow) headlight connectors (female H4) into the (bright yellow) mating connector (male H4) on the new harness.
Thanks alot, Judd yankeedog , Since you are having so many problems with your coils ,might i suggest the installation of a fuse holder on the positive side of your coil. It has a resistor wire from the factory. The resistor wire alone will keep the coil from cooking And that is provided the coil wasn’t making ANY resistance of it’s own, which all ignition coils do. The only way to cook a coil in a DuraSpark harness is to deprive them of ground. Unless you hook polarity up backwards when you install the E-core coil, check polairty When not properly grounded, the coil will discharge internally instead of at the plugs and coil melt down is inevitable.
That is the very same reason you shouldn’t pull plug wires off to ‘test’ something. When you pull the plug wire off, the high voltage has no where to go to ground except inside the coil, where it will do damage as it discharges. The damage is also cumulative. The more the coil discharges internally, the more damage is being done.
Brighter Head Lights
Updated from the Holley gold box ignition to a Pertronix unit, and it runs great with a jumper off battery positive, but don’t have enough voltage from the ignition switch to spark the coil. Pertronix said there is a ballast resistor in the system but I don’t know what to look for. The gold box drives the coil directly.
If you think about it, The same thing would apply to the pertronix. The wire from the key switch to the gold box would now go to the positive coil terminal and to the pertronix.
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All the wire was re-routed to relays, new fuse box and junctions under the glove box. All relay systems check out. Here is what I have, from a relay 85 goes to the starter 87 goes to the coil 86 to ground 30 to the white brown wire on the Lucas Starter relay At the coil I have the Black white wires which go to the Pertronic Igniter and to the tach. I should mention that the following worked just fine until I improved things 1 buy a “generic” relay from the auto parts store, of the type used for driving lights, etc, and mount it on the right inner fender, nrear the other two relays.
This relay is a small cube, about one inch on a side, with a small mounting tab. This circuit leaves the ballast resister in the circuit when the car is running, but bypasses it for starting, just like the original MG design. This modification is needed because your starter doesn’t have the by-pass function built in like the MG starter did. I was wondering if I had inadvertently removed the ballast resistor while shortening the wires? How can I prove it is the lack of ballast resistor? And how can I correct it if it is?
Lots of information but I am would have put it back on the road today if she had started. Can’t speak for a Petronix, for faulting purposes disconnect it from the coil and use a ground wire on and off the coil -ve to simulate the points. If you have disconnected the ballast, but have connected the coil boost correctly via your relay simulating the extra contact on the original starter solenoid , the car would start but die as soon as you released the key.
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Most magnetic HID ballasts are multi-tap, meaning they can be connected to several different voltages. Here we display wiring diagrams for metal halide probe start , metal halide pulse start and high pressure sodium HID ballast kits. If it is high pressure sodium, it is supposed to do that when the bulb reaches the end of it’s life and needs to be replaced. It is called cycling.
Ignition Solutions – Spark-ignited engines requires a spark to initiate burning of the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. The spark in each cylinder is provided by a spark plug and is actually a flow of electrical current through the air and fuel vapor between the closely spaced electrodes of the spark plug.
Spark Plug Connector Another common problem with Tecumseh engines is the connector at the spark plug. Measure the resistance from the connector to the engine block. The resistance should be 4, to 7, Ohms. If it is erratic, in the megohm range or open, cut off the boot and re-measure directly from the stranded wire. If it now checks O. If the spark wire is still open, it may have a poor connection at the other end of the wire. After all the other testing is completed, you can use what ever force is necessary to pull the spark wire out of the SSI and will find a small brass nail in the bottom center of the hole.
Measure the resistance from that pin to ground. If it is still open, there is likely an open circuit in the secondary winding of the Pulse Transformer inside the SSI and the unit has failed.
Ship Spare Parts,F
Tells module to retard timing at startup Four-pin connector Violet and Orange wires are from the distributor pickup coil Black wire is the pickup coil ground Green with tracer stripe is the coil negative terminal; the module controls spark with this wire Notice that a ballast resistor is used to drop the coil voltage to 9V when the vehicle is running ON , but this resistor is bypassed with a 12V signal from the starter solenoid when cranking START. FSJ Duraspark wire colors varied across the years.
Hopefully I’ve provided enough information for you to figure it out for your particular Duraspark model. Later I will convert to Weatherpack connectors. I cut a set of connectors off of one of my dozen spare modules that I’ll never need again.
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That would be useful information, just saying MANY DO is of not much help here, unless you’re playing the game of one-upmanship, which I certainly ain’t First of all there is a big difference between and internal resistor and a ballast or resistor wire. The former is in the coil, which means the voltage at the sensor in the distributor is NOT dropped and the later are before the coil which means the voltage to both the coil and the sensor in the distributor is dropped.
Plus you original statement said Every one I’ve seen, and certainly every one I’ve hooked up from scratch run with a ballast or resistance wire between the ignition switch and the coil. No need for 12v to the coil after the motor is running You said nothing about Internal Resistor Coils. PerTronix brand Ignitor’s are a perfect example of an Electronic Ignition that eliminates the ballast resistor and recommends an Internal resisted coil so that they get a full 12v while running.
Also Crane’s XRi suggests you leave the ballast resistor at the coil BUT bypasses it for power to the module itself, retaining a full 12v’s there.
Wiring up the GM 10SI Alternator
So on to the installation which consists of a few simple steps: Headlight Wiring Harness Connection Note: The H4 style connector 3-wire 1. The connection shown in photo A supplies the control power to the two relays in the new harness. Just plug one of the stock faded yellow headlight connectors female H4 into the bright yellow mating connector male H4 on the new harness. It can only go in one way and there is only one male H4 connector, so it is hard to get this step wrong!
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It’s possible someone removed the resistor,unless it was bad I don’t know why they would remove it The old point distributors on Chevy’s ran a ballast resistor. As with a Mopar GM usually mounted it to the firewall close to the distributor. If you read what Wayne is talking about is a resistor wire they both serve the same purpose. The Ballsast resistor is obvious its close to the distributor and looks exactly like the Mopar Ballast resistor usually white and approx.
Sometime they crack and you don’t know it and it can make the engine surge and buck and then run ok and Blah blah blah then run crappy. Also use points prematurely. Sometime they will crack on the back side so you need to remove it to see if it is broken. They usually have the resistence marked on them. To find out if the ballast resistor is the problem you can jump across the resistor.
Don’t leave it there just to prove if the resistor is good or no good.
Offline Damn, this is turning into quite a hassle. But, it’s a hobby not a car – right? I must admit I’ve learned a lot about ignition systems.
The RA receivers have always been considered the paragon of electro-mechanical complexity. However, a methodical approach to the restoration of these ultimate performers will ease an otherwise difficult and time-consuming project.
If I hook a jumper between battery positive and the coil, it’ll start and run just fine. When I hook up the wire from ignition, I’m only reading 9 volts. But with the switch off, resistance between the coil and the switch is. So the wiring is good, but I’ll have to do voltage drops to figure out the source of the draw. The guys at pertronix said that there might be a ballast resistor built into the ignition switch to keep the coil from overheating when the engine is off and the key is on, but I can’t really tell.
Thanks for the advice, I’ll get this thing back on the road one of these days. The ignition switch could be defective. Saw another one with resistance in the switch just last week. Where did the wire go before you pulled the gold box?